![]() Yes that’s exactly what I’ve experienced (the picture 5-E). Oh my… that’s very quick reply, thanks for that! □ Hope this helps, and let me know how it goes. ![]() Make sure you reduce your pressure a lot, otherwise the paint will explode everywhere). ![]() Or if you have a gravity feed airbrush and want to mix in the cup, you can use the backfeed method to help mix (pull needle out slightly, cover the front hold and pull trigger. Make sure you mix thoroughly, and before you load into your brush. What would happen is that I would get really thick paint coming out for a while, I’d add more thinner thinking it wasn’t thinned enough, then I’d end up with over thinned paint because it wasn’t mixed properly to begin with. I used to have a lot of problems where I used to put the paint in my airbrush and then add the thinner in. Buy the proper acrylic thinner and use that.Īlso getting the right ratio for thinning takes a fair bit of practice. Is it like 5-E in this image ( )?Īre you using acrylic or enamel? If you are using Tamiya acrylic, don’t use water as thinner, it doesn’t work very well. Sounds like you are not thinning your paint enough. For my first kit in 3 years, I believe that I’ve managed to trump my last effort my quite a bit, as well as now being confidently be able to mix and preshade the so called Gundam I use an airbrush. Overall I’m quite happy with the final result. Painting over ball joints is a bad idea as it makes the joints too tight.When I put the faceplate on, I didn’t shave off enough of the insides, and thus the side of the faceplate became scratched. I was using low grit paper, and not smoothing it out, the result is very visible scratches, even after painting. Paint will NOT cover up your crappy sanding.I had alot of trouble getting the polycap into the head after assembly, and it caused some paint chips on the head When doing the Gundam head mod, place the head polycab before gluing the head together.I originally thought there would be issues painting them, but the Gunze paint I’m using seems to be holding on them so far, but I’ve decided not to bend them, just in case.Īt the end of the kit I was getting lazy and impatient and ended up using the stickers for the eyes (which didn’t end up that bad) and the forehead sensor (which is a terrible mistake □ ) I think the result is a more balanced look.Īnyway, the feathertips of the wings are not plastic, but some kind of rubber. I’ve made it slightly more traditional Gundam like, using white with blue highlights. I thought there’s too much random blue parts in the original colour scheme, such as the crotch plate, and the entire back skirts are blue. The rest of the kit is basically the same as the Wing ver.Ka.Īs you can see the colour scheme isn’t the plain WZC one. The arms also don’t connect very well to the shoulder joint. For one of the later MGs, there’s some No Grade 1/100 design issues, like the hollow forearms.
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